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Matthew’s work & tech has been featured in a variety of Motorcycle Publications and Websites:

Café Racer, Motorcycle Classics, Rider Magazine, MCN, Cycle Sports TV

Enjoy these informative Pod Casts, informational YouTube videos from Cycle Sports TV & Radio

Cycle Sports TV YouTube Videos

Cycle Sports Radio Pod Cast: Vintage Motorcycles
In this episode of Cycle Sports Radio we are talking Vintage Motorcycles. Our two guests are Race Tech Suspension Vintage Guru Matthew Wiley and owner of Las Vegas Dyno Tech Steve McAnulty.
We discuss the popularity of vintage bikes, how to find a good one, best improvements and modifications and much, much more.
Cycle Sports Radio Pod Cast: Motorcycle Maintenance
Your bike has been parked for the last few months, maybe the last few years. How do you get it road worthy again? What do you need to check on the bike and what maintenance is required?
Matt Wiley from Race Tech joins us once again to talk about the best ways to get your bike back on the road safely. We also discuss what maintenance needs to be done to keep your bike running for thousands of miles.
Don’t miss this episode, it is for anyone who rides. It's filled with some amazing information, which can save you thousands of dollars!

PDF Forms Downloads
Ship in Components Service Request Form
Rebuilt Brakes Installation Instructions
Rebuilt Carburetor Installation Instructions
Rebuilt Suspension Installation Instructions
Viper Fairing Installation Instructions
K&L Catalog

Moto Tech Tips from Matt

Storing your Motorcycle
Motorcycle storage technique depends to a large degree on length of storage time due to a large degree on the low quality of gasoline we have today and how quickly it goes bad causing fuel system issues. There are other things to consider when storing as well that are often overlooked. So let’s review a couple different methods then you can choose what will work best for your personal situation.
Short Term Storage, 1-4 months:
Leave fuel in the bike, topping off with fresh fuel as close to the time of storage as possible. When topping off the tank add a healthy dose of fuel stabilizer, I typically use a little more than called for as it won’t hurt to use some extra. Any brand is OK however the Gold Eagle Brand ‘STA-BIL’ is what I prefer:
I also like to use a bottle of Blendzall Gold Label #485 Power Booster as it helps with both octane issues as well as top end lubrication:
It is important to ride the bike for 5-10 miles/15-20 minutes after topping off with fuel and additives to ensure everything is mixed well and has circulated to the carbs, a full fuel tank prevents internal rust. I also suggest storing the bike with fresh oil in the engine as dirty oil has contaminants that can promote corrosion, harden seals, etc.
Make sure to use a ‘Smart’ charger with a maintenance function on the battery no matter if the battery is being left in the bike or removed. A clean bike with good quality spray wax/protectant on the paint. plastic, etc. is worthwhile as is spraying rubber parts with silicone spray to help keep them soft and pliable, WD 40 sprayed on the engine will also help fight corrosion as well as make post storage clean up go easier. Make sure your chain is clean and lubed so it doesn’t rust or the o-rings dry out and fail. I also like to keep the bike covered, an all-weather type motorcycle cover if stored outside, a soft cover fabric type if stored inside.
When you are ready to start the bike and put it back into service it is best to drain the carb bowls (there is a screw at the base of each to allow this) just make sure to use something to keep the fuel from running all over the engine or wash right way otherwise. Put some Gold Eagle ‘Start’ fuel treatment in the tank & slosh the fuel around as much as possible prior to refilling the carbs: Today’s gas is so poor that even with stabilizers the fuel can get weak, it may even foul spark plugs on start up so be prepared for that possibility. NOTE: it is generally not a good idea to start the bike and just let it idle for a few minutes during storage. This promotes moisture internally as well as oil contamination. Unless you can take the bike for a ride long enough for the engine to reach full operating temperature (15-30 minute ride) it is better not to start it at all in my opinion.
Long Term Storage, 5 months or more:
At this length of storage I would suggest draining the carbs & fuel tank of fuel. It is important to get all the fuel out, drain the carbs then crank the engine for a bit to pull all the fuel out of the carb passages otherwise you could still have carb problems. Same goes for the fuel tank, use the petcock ‘PRI’ (prime) position to drain the fuel, if there is still some residual fuel in the tank pull the petcock to get the last of it out. Make sure to coat the inside of the fuel tank with a light oil, fogging oil or WD40 at a minimum to help prevent rusting. If you end up with some residual oil on the tank pull the petcock to drain it prior to adding fresh gas although a small amount of oil will not hurt anything when mixed with the gas.
It would also be worthwhile to ‘fog’ the engine for long term storage. You can purchase fogging oil at the boat shop or motorcycle dealer that also services personal watercraft, they should also have silicone spray for your rubber parts protection. Do note that fogging the engine may also foul the park plugs, follow the directions on the fogging oil label but make sure to remove your air filter for the fogging process (PWC & boats typically do not have an air filter & the oil will clog up your air filter and not reach the engine properly)
All the other storage techniques mentioned for short term storage apply as well, in fact more so when storing long term. Brake fluid should be flushed prior to storage and if the bike is liquid cooled fresh coolant should be installed to avoid stuck brakes and leaky water pump seals. Make sure to keep an eye on the battery fluid during storage, top off with distilled water as needed. Make sure to check over the bike carefully when putting it back into service and make sure tire PSI is at spec as well as tire condition particularly if stored outside. Proper storage effort up front can save big bucks and riding time in the long run when putting the bike back into service so don’t skimp!

Steering Head & Swing Arm Bearing Service
Chassis bearing service is important yet often overlooked. These bearings require periodic service and adjustment. Steering head bearings (or neck bearings) reside in the frame and allow the front end to pivot. They are heavily loaded and subject to abuse from bumps and braking forces. As such they require heavy duty waterproof grease for lubrication and careful, regular adjustment.
Check these bearings by holding the front brake & rocking the bike back & forth listening & feeling for any clicking of slop. Next check is supporting the front of the bike with the wheel off the ground. Turn the handlebars back & forth, if you feel any notching or roughness they are shot. Check adjustment by turning the handlebar to the left, at about the halfway point the front end should fall gently to the stop. If it falls too quickly loosen the large chrome crown nut at the upper triple clamp then adjust the spanner nut under the triple clamp until the front end has the correct fall away. Always check fall away to the left because control cables will affect movement to the right in most case. You should also loosen the upper fork pinch bolts prior to re-torque the crown nut to allow the triple clamp to be moved downward without distortion, just don’t forget to tighten them back up!
Most Classic & Vintage bikes use ball bearings that are subject to wear. When servicing these bearing you can obtain fresh ball bearings at the hardware store pretty cheap. Polish up the races & install the new balls with as much waterproof grease as possible, then adjust for proper fall away after the forks & wheel have been reinstalled.
A better option is to replace the ball type bearings with Tapered Roller Bearings. These are available as an aftermarket upgrade. Check with your local bike shop, online or your favorite catalog for them & expect to pay $40-60 for the set. This type of bearing will stay in adjustment longer, last longer & provide better front end feel & feedback.
Another good servicing option is to replace the rubber bushings many bikes have as vibration isolators. These bushings found in the triple clamps at the handlebar mounts & they will harden up, oval out, or otherwise become loose & crummy. A handlebar that wiggles loosely is not a good thing for control or safety.
Make sure to verify all control cable routing and adjustment after servicing to make sure they are not being pinched at full steering lock or causing the throttle to be pulled open. I always recommend having a service manual on hand for reference & guidance. An adjustable spanner wrench is a great addition to your toolbox as it will adjust shocks as well as steering bearing nuts. If you are going to install new tapered roller bearings there are some special installation drivers that make the job easier however I have successfully used some pipe & the old bearing races to cheat on this procedure. Check with your local bike shop or online for tools & products.

Setting up Suspension
Today’s motorcycles offer incredible all-around performance combined with fairly low maintenance. In most cases the best & most rewarding enhancements a rider can make to their bike is the suspension. There is a wide array of products & services available, so what does one choose? I firmly believe the first step is to properly set up & optimize your machine. I suggest this due to the fact that the motorcycle chassis is typically the most neglected part of the machine. Upgrading suspension components will not yield their full potential if their supporting systems are not up to snuff. To put in another way, installing a performance exhaust & intake kit on a machine in need of a motor rebuild isn’t going to improve the situation much…
Most cycles today have high quality bearings supporting the suspension linkages, swing arms & steering heads as opposed to the simple high friction bushings of yesteryear. However, we as riders often don’t think to service them as needed. The result is high friction, binding or slop resulting in poor handling performance, safety issues & very expensive repairs that could have been avoided! Let’s look at some service tasks that can yield surprising improvements in ride quality & handling as well as saving big dollars down the road.
Fork Oil changes are often overlooked. To some extent because most bikes today require fork removal for service. Typically forks don’t receive any service until they begin to leak. Problem is forks ‘break in’ just like an engine does. After the first couple of thousand miles metal shavings & aluminum oxide are contaminating the fork oil. The metal chips embed in the bushings, the aluminum oxide hardens the seals & o-rings and due to the contamination of the fluid, damping quality is adversely affected. Just imagine what would happen if the engine oil wasn’t changed after break in & instead was left in the engine until a seal started to leak… When you have your forks serviced make sure they receive a thorough internal cleaning. High quality synthetic fork oil such as Race Tech Ultra Slick is worth the extra money as it will last much longer than standard suspension fluid before breaking down from heat & pressure. Seals will last longer & damping will remain more consistent with less fade. Cartridge type forks require some special tools & procedures, so you may want to have a professional perform the fork disassembly & service aspect to the job. However, removing the forks from the bike on your own can save you time & money.
While the forks are off the bike you now have an excellent opportunity to service the steering head bearings. A spanner type nut retains and adjusts the bearing, requiring a special tool. Modern motorcycles come with high quality bearings, but very little grease, remember “lube is your friend!” Taking the time to carefully grease pack the bearings will greatly extend their service life. Taking a little extra time to add a grease fitting eliminates the need to disassemble the front end for future service. Just zap some grease into the fitting every few thousand miles. Proper lubrication also helps the bearings to stay in adjustment. Steering head bearings seat themselves & loosen up over the first few thousand miles. Once they get loose every bump & every hard braking event takes some life out of them. Refer to the service manual for the initial setting, fine tuning the adjustment to your personal satisfaction. Much of the abnormal tire wear we see on big sports & touring bikes is a result of poor front end set up from lack of maintenance & adjustment. At today’s tire prices front end service could easily pay for itself in extended tire life!
Another overlooked service opportunity is the wheel bearings. While they cannot be removed for cleaning it is still very possible to add grease to them, greatly extending service life. While you have the wheel off the bike, inspect the bearings by sticking a finger in them & rotating them. Make sure they turn freely & do not have looseness or side play. Then very carefully pry the rubber oil/dust seals out of the wheel (a small tire iron works well for this). Most bikes have a caged ball bearing that has rubber seals covering the ball bearings & cage. A tiny screw driver or pick can be used to carefully pop off the rubber seal exposing the bearings. Shove as much hi-temp, moly type grease as you can into the bearings; rotating them during the process to help distribute the grease. Next push the rubber seal back into the bearing until you feel it ‘snap’ into place. Make sure to put some grease in the lips of the oil/dust seals so they don’t wear a notch in the axle or wheel spacers. A large socket will work well as a seal driver for re-installation.
As you reassemble the front end, take your time & make sure all components go back on correctly aligned. Fork height should be exactly the same for both forks. If you bike has inverted/upside down type forks the triple clamps must be set to the correct torque or internal fork binding will result! Make sure the cables & brake lines are routed properly. Refer to your service manual for specs (you do have a service manual, right?)
Investing in a few specialty items such as front and rear support stands, a good center jack, service manual & basic hand tools will go a long way. Learning how your bike is put together can be very rewarding. Performing maintenance tasks with riding buddies is a great excuse to drink beer & lie to each other, the next best thing to riding!
Now that your motorcycles front end is serviced & working properly we can begin to look at performance enhancement options in our next installment. In the meantime ride long, ride hard, have fun & be safe!

Chassis Inspection
Your motorcycle’s chassis is perhaps being overlooked! Many riders neglect the necessary chassis service on their bike despite being diligent with oil changes. The result is poor handling, possibly safety, costly tire wear & chassis repair. Protect yourself & your investment! Invest in a service manual, some equipment and keep everything operating smoothly!
Always set your tire PSI first & check often. If you see unusual tire wear or the handlebars ‘wiggle’ on deceleration, service is needed. Fork oil changes are as important as engine oil changes! While you are servicing your forks take the extra time to clean, grease & adjust your steering head bearings. You will be pleased with the improvement in ride quality when you are done!
Do you notice a weave or wallow when cornering? Perhaps a squeaking noise when you get on or off your bike? Time for swing arm & shock linkage service! Clean, grease & tighten everything up and WOW! When these bearings & bushings fail they are expensive to replace. Service them & they can last the life of your bike. Higher loads, mileage & extreme conditions such as dirt & gravel roads will reduce the life of these critical components if they are not serviced.
Owning quality equipment makes a difference! offers tools, parts, equipment & we are happy to answer your questions! Having the right products & technical info to do your own chassis service keeps your bike in top shape saving, you money in the long run.

Your motorcycle’s tires are important to your safety & the handling of your machine. Tires are more than round black & expensive! Protect yourself & your investment! The single most important factor in tire performance is air pressure. I have consistently seen this to be the most overlooked aspect of motorcycle maintenance. Different tires & cycles require specific air pressures, typically 30-40 PSI. Check with your tire manufacturer’s website for recommended pressures. If your bike has the original equipment tires your owner’s manual will have the info.
Check & set your tire PSI ‘cold’ In other words check your tire pressure prior to riding. Tires heat up during use & as the temperature raises the air pressure increases. Heat kills tires & the lower the air pressure the hotter the tire gets! Excessive heat also affects the rubber compound & consistent overheating will reduce traction, increase wear & could cause catastrophic failure…
Various adjustments on your cycle will affect your tires as well. Chain or belt adjustment is important for wheel alignment front to rear. Don’t trust the marks on the swing arm, measure yourself! Worn or misadjusted steering head bearings can cause irregular wear on the front tire as can worn out or misadjusted suspension. Don’t forget to adjust PSI for added loads.
Using a high quality tire gauge makes a difference! Having the right tools & technical info to make you own chassis adjustments keeps your bike in top shape & saves you money in the long run.

Lube is Your Friend!
Most of us are good about changing engine oil on a regular basis, some of us are good about lubing drive chains regularly few of us think about the rest of the bike… Motorcycles are full of pivot points: Levers, Cables, Footpegs, Kickstands, Steering Head Bearings, Swing Arm Bearing, Axles, Wheel Bearings, etc. Lack of lube leads to high effort movement as well as premature wear. Don’t believe me? Ok then set a timer for 5 minutes & start rubbing your hands together, don’t stop until the time goes off… Bet you can’t make it 5 minutes before the pain makes you stop. Try it again with a handful of hand lotion…. Yea it makes a big difference!
Lubing everything on your bike can be a daunting task so do it in stages or perhaps as a winter project. If you are building or restoring a bike make sure to take the time for proper lubrication during the building process. A thick water proof marine grease works well I also like the black moly assembly lube from Bel Ray In fact I like to make a 50/50 mixture of the two. This will provide a thick, slick long lasting water-proof lube.
I like to be systematic (perhaps a result of OCD?) and work from the front of the bike to the back. Starting with the front wheel remove it & grease the bearings (rubber bearing seals will pop off if gently pried and can be carefully reinstalled but metal shields will not…), lube the axle and any brake caliper pivot points for disc models, cam pivots on drum models and clean the brake pads/shoes with brake cleaner while you are at it. Lube the various bolt threads as well. Move up to the steering head to grease that critical bearing and inspect for wear (see back issues of CR Tech Tips for more details on Steering Head & Swing Arm Bearing Service) While the forks are off flush & change the fork oil.
At the Handlebars lube the lever pivots and the cables. There is a slick little cable lubing tool that clamps onto the cable allowing high pressure lube to be squirted into the cables. There is also a cable lube spray to use along with it. Spray a little WD 40 into the handlebar switches, ignition switch, gas cap lock, seat lock/latch. Work your way down to the foot pegs: remove the pivot pins and lube away! Kick Stands and Center Stand pivots need lube too. At the rear of the bike remove the Swing Arm to grease the Bearings, Linkages and thru shaft. Remove the rear wheel repeating the procedure used on the front wheel and brakes. Take some time to clean the gunk off the sprocket & chain.
This is a time consuming process but it will deliver delightful results in the end. It will also point out worn parts that can easily be replaced during the process saving you from bigger issues later on. Take your time to clean all that parts as you go thru this process as areas not normally exposed (inside of forks, swing arm, etc.) will present themselves for gunk removal & cleaning It has been my experience that a clean, well lubed bike works better, lasts longer & event looks better too. Indeed lube is your friend!

Basic Trouble Shooting Motorcycle Starting Problems
My Bike Won’t Start, no lights & engine won’t crank:
Check Main Fuse
Check Battery Connections
Check Battery Voltage, 12v?
My Bike Won’t Start, lights come on, engine won’t crank:
Check Battery voltage 12v?
Check Ignition Fuses
Check Safety switches; kick stand, clutch interlock
Check Starter Relay (solenoid) Starter Motor Voltage
My Bike Won’t Start, engine cranks but won’t run
Check Fuel Supply
Check Fuse; Fuel Pump
Check Fuse; Ignition
Check Fuel Pump Relay Voltage 12V?
Check Spark Plugs; wet w/fuel? Spark?
Feel for strong compression blowing out the spark plug hole.
Become familiar with your bike. Review the manual so you know where the major components are; battery, fuses, etc. are located. What tools if any are needed to access these areas? Keep spare fuses & basic tools accessible.

My Bike Won’t Start, no lights & engine won’t crank:
The key is turned on but nothing is happening, no lights, no power, engine won’t turn over… Now What!?! Most likely it will be something simple:
Check Fuses; Main fuse: Locate the fuse block, under the seat or behind a body panel in most cases, some models have a fuse on the starter relay as well. There will be an extra fuse in the fuse compartment, make sure to replace the spare after you use it!
Check Battery Connections: Use wrench or screwdriver to be sure. If corrosion is present clean it. Make sure to check the positive (red) wire connection at the starter relay (solenoid) as well.
Check Battery Voltage: A fully charged battery has 13.6 volts with no load (key off). Your bike needs 10.5 volts minimum to start, more if fuel injected. Use a volt meter to see the voltage across the battery terminals with the key off. Next turn the key on, the voltage should not drop more the 1 volt. Push the starter button, voltage should not drop more than another 1-1 ½ volts. If it does the battery is weak/bad, or there is a short in the bikes electrical system.
Check Key Switch: Gently wiggle the key around in the switch. Squirt some WD40 into the key slot & turn the key back & forth a few times. Worn or dirty switch contacts can come back to life long enough to get you home or to the shop.
If the problem goes beyond the easy quick fix then dedicated trouble shooting will require some tools, VOM meter & a service manual. Bikes with full fairings & body work will require partial or complete removal. Electrical connectors may be hidden in hard to reach places. Take your time & don’t get in over your head.
My Bike Won’t Start, lights come on, engine won’t crank:
Everything seems fine until you press the starter button & nothing happens. Listen carefully, can you hear the starter relay click or buzz? Do the lights dim when you press the starter button? If so then you know the starter circuit is functioning. If not, then the starter button, safety interlock or ignition fuse is bad.
Check Battery voltage: A fully charged battery has 13.6 volts with no load (key off). Your bike needs 10.5 volts minimum to start, more if fuel injected. Check voltage across the battery terminals with the key off. With key on voltage should not drop more the 1 volt. Push the starter button, voltage should not drop more than another 1-1 ½ volts. Otherwise battery is weak/bad.
Check Fuses; ignition: Locate the fuse block, under the seat or behind a body panel in most cases. Older bikes use the glass style that can look good but still be bad. There will be an extra fuse in the fuse compartment, make sure to replace the spare after you use it!
Check Safety switches; kick stand, clutch interlock, handlebar stop switch: Wiggle & tug them gently. Squirt some WD40 into the switches, this may bring them back to life temporarily. You may be able to make a jumper wire to bypass the defective switch temporarily to get you home or to the shop.
Check Starter Relay (solenoid): Make sure there is 12 volts present on the starter motor side of the relay when the starter button is pushed. Rap & Tap on it, it may work one more time allowing you get the engine started…
Check Starter Motor: is 12 volts reaching the starter motor? If so then the starter motor is bad or the engine is locked.
My Bike Won’t Start, engine cranks but won’t run
The engine spins over just like it should but it won’t start. Don’t crank it too long or the battery will run down. An engine needs 3 things to run: Fuel, compression & spark. Which one is lacking?
Check Fuel Supply: Is there plenty of fuel in the tank? Does the bike have a shut off valve, is it on & at the correct setting? Many fuel valves are vacuum operated, is the vacuum line intact & attached?
Check Fuse; Fuel Pump: Fuel Injected bikes always have a fuel pump, some carbureted bikes do as well. Can you hear the fuel pump click, buzz, etc? Check the fuse for the fuel pump.
Check Fuel Pump Relay: It may be hard to identify with out the service manual to aid you. Check for voltage going into & coming out of it. Rap & tap on it, it may trip temporarily.
Check Spark Plugs; Spark ok? Hook the spark plug to the high tension wire, ground the spark plug against the engine & crank the motor. A strong blue spark should be present Plugs wet w/fuel? If the spark plugs are wet with fuel then a lack of spark or compression is the problem. If not then the fuel delivery system needs to be checked.
Feel for strong compression blowing out the spark plug hole: Place your finger firmly over the spark plug hole & crank the motor. You should feel strong compression that blows your finger away from the hole. If not then mechanical issues are present…
Be systematic in your approach; use a service manual if at all possible. Take notes as you go, bag up & label screws, fasteners, etc. so as not to lose track of them.

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650 N. Penrod Road #725
Show Low, AZ 85901
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Matt Wiley with Greg Huffman working on vintage Yamaha TZ350 AHRMA Road Racer at Barber Vintage Festival

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